The purpose of this post is to familiarize other cruisers about Ciguatera. Ciguatera toxicity is a food-borne illness caused by eating fish contaminated with Ciguatoxin. This toxin is a potent neurotoxin and is produced by Dinoflagellates which adhere to algae, coral, and seaweed where herbivorous fish eat them.

Our cruise to the Ragged Islands was beautiful and calm. We buddy-boated with Alliance, N57 Rochelle and Jason and Zarpe, N62 Jean and Dave. We left from Long Island, Thompson Bay, a day trip to Crooked Island, anchoring in Landrail Point anchorage and then cruised to Ragged Island to anchor in Hog Cay. Kariwa, N62 Frank and Leslie met us in Hog Cay. The day we cruised to Hog Cay, we all fished from the boats as we traveled. Every once in a while we would hear on the VHS radio “Fish ON!” and we would wait to hear what was caught or perhaps what got away! It was fun!

Scott caught a number of barracudas; we tossed them back for another day.

We weighed anchor really early the day we cruised to Ragged Islands so we could fish a reef, then continue on to Hog Cay.

Diane Reef; the blue line is Orenda’s autopilot track.

The biggest fish caught that day was an amberjack weighing in at 33 pounds! And we all looked forward to sharing a fish dinner when invited!

Hog Cay was beautiful and the following day, after chores in the morning, we played around on our paddle-boards and tendered into shore. We had a few cooler beers at the Hog Cay “Yacht Club.” We met up with a sailor (left of Scott below), the only other boat anchored in Hog Cay.

Hog Cay Yacht Club was decorated with boat paraphernalia!

Rochelle, me and Jean on our paddle boards.

That evening, we were all invited for dinner; fresh fish caught in the beautiful Bahama waters. Rochelle provided Vermont cheese to eat before dinner, I brought a green salad, and Leslie on Kariwa made a delicious chocolate cake for dessert! I mention the sailor we met earlier because he ‘cautioned’ us about eating “reef” fish, specifically amberfish, telling us that it can make you sick. Really……..?

Dinner was delicious! Included on the menu was rice and peas and beverages.

Well, that night I experienced the worst stomach ache I had ever had and finally after tossing and turning, I went out to the salon to lay so I would not wake Scott up. At 6:30 am or so, Scott and I noticed the Bahamas Defense Force (flashing red and blue lights) near Zarpe or Kariwa, not quite sure. Around 6:45 am, I think, Jean sent us a message to tell us that the Bahamas Defense Force could transport us to the air strip on the island, and we could charter a plane to take us to Florida for treatment. Obviously the other boaters had been awake a while to make plans! Scott and I had terrible stomach aches and guess what? Diarrhea! The bowling ball in my stomach was so painful that I’m not sure I was aware of everything that was happening. Scott and I decided to stay on Orenda. As I mentioned, I had di-a-rrh-ea and I’m not sure I could have gone anywhere!

What we all had was Ciguatera, poisoning by eating a fish contaminated with toxins produced by tiny algae found around coral reefs. Information from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention stated that Ciguatera can accumulate in reef fish that eat other fish and the fish we may want to avoid include barracuda, moray eel, grouper, amberjack, sea bass, sturgeon, parrot fish, sturgeonfish and red snapper. Ciguatera symptoms usually develop 3-6 hours after eating contaminated fish. Common symptoms include: nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain and less common symptoms include tingling, tooth pain, itching, metallic taste in the mouth, blurred vision and increased sensitivity to hot and cold.

I think the web site: The Boat Galley, Ciguatera Poisoning said it best: And if you get ciguatera, you’re generally not just a little sick… you’re really sick with both gastrointestinal and neurological symptoms. Worse news: there’s no cure or antidote. Even worse: symptoms can continue for months or years. More bad news: once you think you’re cured, many things will trigger a new bout – alcohol (even a single beer or glass of wine for some people), nuts and fish.

I had never heard of ciguatera and I had not read about it in cruising guides we have. But that morning, we all searched the internet, an afterthought to find out as much information as we could. In addition to nuts, fish and alcohol, chicken, eggs and caffeine can also trigger symptoms.

We are still battling the poisoning almost 4 weeks after we ate the fish. In addition to the symptoms listed by the CDC, Scott and I suffered with dizziness and our daily blood pressure readings and heart rates were quite low. We did not leave the boat for two weeks and only left then to provision at a small grocery store in Thompson Bay on Long Island. As I shopped in the small grocery store, I had to sit on a step, or lean on the wall to rest. The shopping expedition was exhausting (frustrating for Scott) and as soon as I got home and put away the cold items, I laid down and napped!

Thompson Bay on Long Island; Scott and Jason look a little lighter!

Exuma Yacht Club, lemonade or tonic water for all!

Lessons Learned for me: I should have listened to the sailor who cautioned us about eating amberjack and at least, checked the internet. I’m still smacking my forehead! And again, I want to share my experience, so other cruisers in the Bahamas or elsewhere may be aware that this fish-borne illness exists. There is no way to tell if the fish you caught carries the poison and it cannot be destroyed by freezing or conventional cooking. I now know of only one other person who has been poisoned with Ciguatera. The Centers for Disease Control estimate that around 50,000 cases occur globally each year most commonly in the Pacific Ocean, Indian Ocean and the Caribbean Sea between the latitudes of 35 degrees N and 35 degrees S and the risk appears to be increasing due to coral reef deterioration. Death from poisoning is less than 1 in 1000 according to the CDC. I think Scott told me that on the first day! Oh good I thought….

Scott and I are still not eating as we were before. We drink tons of water, usually with Gatorade. We started taking B-12 supplements. I have not had a beer yet or a cup of coffee, but I’m sure I will get the urge now that the GI symptoms have passed and I am gaining my strength. My most challenging symptom, following the GI discomfort, has been itching. A crazy symptom as it moves around my body, sometimes to the soles of my feet, or inside my arms, or stomach or neck. Benedryl has helped me a lot. Benedryl and daily naps! And my hands are still sensitive to cold.

So…. so much for the Ragged Islands. Some day we will return so we can see Duncan Town, snorkel and dive and enjoy the islands which we were unable to do this time. Zarpe and Kariwa are in Palm Beach with boat projects. Alliance is in the Andros Islands. We all continue to keep in touch by text messages sharing what foods we can tolerate, what symptoms continue to plague us, and generally, how we are feeling. And we all wonder who will be brave enough to have the first alcoholic beverage!

I think we all learned from this experience (I certainly did!) and our continued sharing of information has been extremely helpful and comforting, and often entertaining! Hopefully none of us will have any long term effects. Fingers crossed!